How to install click laminate, step by step

A click laminate floor is one of the most achievable DIY jobs in a renovation. Most problems come from skipping the preparation, not from the clicking itself. Always read the manufacturer's instructions first; the steps below are the general method.

Tools you need

• Tape measure, pencil and a long straightedge or chalk line
• Jigsaw or laminate cutter, plus a fine handsaw for door frames
• Spacers (8–10 mm), a tapping block and a pull bar
• Rubber mallet, utility knife and a spirit level
• Dust mask and safety glasses for cutting

1. Let the boards acclimatise

Leave the closed packs flat in the room for at least 48 hours, at normal room temperature (around 18–22 °C). This lets the boards settle to the conditions they will live in.

2. Check the subfloor

The subfloor must be dry, clean, firm and flat. A common tolerance is no more than 2–3 mm difference over 1 metre. Fill dips with a levelling compound and grind down high spots. Remove carpet; you can usually leave old tiles or vinyl if they are firmly bonded and flat.

3. Lay the underlay

On concrete or screed, start with a vapour barrier. Then roll out the underlay at right angles to the direction of the boards.

4. Plan the direction and the last row

Laminate usually looks best laid in the direction of the main light source. Measure the width of the room and work out the width of the last row. If it would be narrower than about 5 cm, trim the first row so that both are roughly equal.

5. Lay the first row

• Saw off the tongue on the side facing the wall
• Place spacers along the wall to keep an expansion gap of 8–10 mm
• Click the short ends together and keep the row perfectly straight

The expansion gap is essential. Laminate moves with temperature and humidity, and a floor that touches the wall or a pipe will lift.

6. Stagger the joints

Start each new row with the offcut from the previous one, as long as it is at least 30 cm. The end joints between rows should be at least 30–40 cm apart. This gives a natural look and a stronger floor.

7. Door frames and pipes

Undercut door frames with a handsaw resting on a spare board, so the laminate slides underneath. For pipes, drill a hole 15–20 mm larger than the pipe, cut out the piece to the edge, and glue it back behind the pipe. Cover the gap with a pipe rose.

8. Expansion joints in large areas

Large surfaces and every doorway need an expansion joint covered by a profile. Most manufacturers ask for one when a room is longer than about 10–12 metres in either direction; check the exact figure for your floor.

9. Finish

Remove the spacers and fit the skirting boards. Fix the skirting to the wall, never to the floor, so that the laminate can still move. Fit the transition profiles at the doorways.

Order the floor, underlay, skirting and profiles together so the colours match. You can find everything in the EasyFloors range, including tools.