How to choose laminate flooring: AC rating, thickness and finish

Laminate looks simple on a showroom board: a plank, a colour, a price per square metre. The differences that decide whether a floor still looks good in ten years are in the specification sheet. This guide walks through the four things worth checking before you order.

1. Wear resistance: the AC rating

Every quality laminate is tested under the European standard EN 13329. The result is an abrasion class, written as AC1 to AC5 (some manufacturers add AC6 for heavy commercial use). The class tells you how well the top wear layer stands up to foot traffic, scratches and impact.

AC rating	Typical use
AC3	Bedrooms and living rooms with normal traffic
AC4	Busy homes, hallways, kitchens, light commercial use such as offices
AC5	Shops, restaurants and other heavy commercial areas

Alongside the AC rating you will often see a use class: 21 to 23 for domestic areas and 31 to 34 for commercial areas. An AC4 laminate is usually class 23/32, which covers every room in a house and most small business premises.

For a family home, AC4 is the sensible default. The price difference with AC3 is small, and the extra wear resistance shows in hallways and around the kitchen table.

2. Thickness: 7, 8, 10 or 12 mm

Laminate is commonly sold in 7, 8, 10 and 12 mm. Thickness is mostly about how the floor feels and sounds, not about how long it lasts: wear resistance comes from the top layer, which is the same on a 7 mm and a 12 mm board of the same AC class.

• 7–8 mm suits most renovation work. It keeps the floor build-up low, which matters next to existing tiles or under doors.
• 10–12 mm feels more solid underfoot and bridges small unevenness in the subfloor better. It is also quieter to walk on.

If you are laying over underfloor heating, check the manufacturer's maximum thermal resistance. Thicker boards plus a thick underlay can exceed it.

3. Edges: bevelled or square

The edge profile changes the look more than most people expect.

• Square edges give a smooth, continuous surface. Good for a modern, calm look and easy to clean.
• Micro-bevels or V-grooves on the long sides mark out each plank and look closer to real wood.
• Four-sided V-grooves give the most realistic plank effect, especially with longer boards.

4. Surface and decor

Most laminate today has an embossed surface. The better floors use embossed-in-register (EIR), where the texture follows the printed wood grain, so knots and grain feel as they look. Matt finishes hide scratches and dust better than satin or gloss.

Also look at the number of different printed boards in a pack. More variation means fewer repeats across the room.

What about water resistance?

Standard laminate has a high-density fibreboard (HDF) core, which swells if water gets into the joints. Many current ranges are water-resistant: the joints and core are treated so that spills can stand for a number of hours before you wipe them up. That makes laminate workable in kitchens and hallways. For bathrooms and areas that stay wet, an SPC floor is usually the better choice. We compare both in Laminate vs SPC vs vinyl.

Quick checklist

1. AC4 / class 32 for most homes, AC5 for commercial spaces
2. 8 mm for renovation, 10–12 mm for comfort and sound
3. Decide on bevels before you choose the decor
4. Choose water-resistant laminate for kitchens and hallways
5. Order the right underlay, skirting and profiles at the same time

Once you know the specification you need, you can compare ranges side by side and order directly from EasyFloors.